From Gippsland To Sand

The Age

Wednesday March 9, 2005

Cameron McGavin

Roll with the hills and the waves of the Bass coast, writes Cameron McGavin.

A DRIVE from Loch to Kilcunda is a great way to bring Victoria's compact yet diverse nature into focus.

As the road winds its way from the Gippsland hills down to the surf-pounded Bass coast and back again, it's hard not to be impressed by how the geography transforms with almost every kilometre. Or the history and wide variety of activities on offer.

The easiest way to get to Loch is to follow the South Gippsland Highway (M420) south out of Dandenong. Past Lang Lang you'll see signs marking the turn-off left to Korumburra and Leongatha via Loch. From this point it's an easy 18-kilometre run along the sweeping A440 to Loch, by which time the scenery has transformed from flat farmland to the dense rolling hills so typical of the region.

Loch, opened up to settlement in 1876, is a trip back in time. Most of the town's old buildings still exist (many with original signage) and, with a gaggle of antique and craft shops on the main street, it's easy to burn up an hour searching for that elusive thingy. The town also has a cafe, tea rooms, winery (Bass Valley Estate, 5659 6321), historic railway, two B&Bs and a pub/hotel within easy reach, so it's not hard to find a reason to stick around for a while.

Leaving Loch, you need to turn right to rejoin the A440, which tracks through narrow valleys before twisting and climbing to Korumburra, just 15 kilometres away.

As the road climbs higher there are excellent views stretching south towards the Bass coast. It's much like this all the way into Korumburra, once a big coal mining town but now the service centre for the many surrounding dairy and cattle farms.

To get to the coast from Korumburra, take the right turn for Inverloch and Wonthaggi (signposted C437) on the main street. From here the road winds through Korumburra's beautifully maintained outskirts before beginning a heart-stopping roller-coaster ride down to the coastal plateau filled with spectacular views.

At about the 29 kilometre mark, look out for the left turn to Inverloch (signposted C441). If you're not in a hurry and it's a Sunday, though, make the short detour along the C437 into Kongwak and its market.

Back onto C441, the road swiftly flattens out for the lazy 13 kilometre run into Inverloch. The hills are well and truly behind you now and it's an easy, mostly straight, drive into this popular coastal resort.

To return to Melbourne you can either go inland or take the more interesting coast road. To get to the latter, head past the Hotel Esplanade towards the beach and continue right along the water heading west, following the signs.

Soon after crossing Wreck Creek, take a left at the T-intersection for the Bunurong Coastal Drive (route 92). This road is enjoyably sinuous but don't get too carried away with the curves. You're passing through the Bunurong Marine and Coastal Park, so pull over at one of the many stops and take a look.

After entering the tiny surf town of Cape Paterson, route 92 heads inland to Wonthaggi, another of Gippsland's bigger service towns with a coal-mining past. Getting back onto route 92 is easy, thanks to the signs, and from there the road traces its way back to the water, with the spectacular coast coming into view again just before Kilcunda.

From Kilcunda it's simply a matter of continuing to the Bass Highway and on to Melbourne. But with a great pub/hotel, a B&B, secluded beaches, stunning views and many walking tracks, you might be tempted to stay on and avoid urban reality for a while.

Stop for a bite: There's no shortage of food stops but for many, Inverloch is where the hunger really sets in. Cafe Tsunami (5674 2129), Cafe Pajez (5674 1516) and the Esplanade Hotel (5674 1432) are all good. If you're not that hungry, nibble on some local cheeses at Paradise Enough Wines (5657 4241), just out of Kongwak.

Or something more grand: Inverloch's Kiosk Cafe (5674 3611) does breakfast and lunch and has an excellent dinner menu. For evening dining in Inverloch, try Bistro Blue (5674 3339).

Try visiting: Kongwak Market (0417 142 478) every Sunday and the first Saturday of the month from 10am to 3pm. Sit in the big shed, which features live music, real coffee and cheap but good food.

Stay at: If you like hills, check out the 412-star Kardella Homestead Bed and Breakfast (5659 8252), near Korumburra. For coast junkies there's Ocean Walk Bed and Breakfast, 412 stars (5678 7419), in Kilcunda. In Inverloch, there's everything from the Floraston Country Retreat B&B (5674 2525) to the beach apartment ambience of Studio 108, 412 stars (5674 1135).

FAST FACTS

Trip Distance: 77 km.

Distances from Melbourne: Loch 102 km, Kilcunda 119 km.

Fuel available at: Loch, Korumburra, Inverloch, Wonthaggi.

Short story: A classic run from the hills to the coast packed with diverse scenery and a host of options for activities, food and accommodation.

© 2005 The Age

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